The 2013 Chambolle-Musigny Les Clos de l’Orme offers superb quality for a village-level wine. One of the first wines to go through malolactic fermentation, the Clos de l'Orme is already very nicely put together. These 50-70 year-old vines confer richness and persistence, but there is also notable energy in the glass. Citrus-inflected overtones add brightness and exotic flair to the finish.

The 2013 Chambolle-Musigny Clos de l’Orme has a fresh and lifted nose of raspberry preserve, maraschino, a hint of cola and sous-bois aromas that unfold in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a rigid backbone that lends this a masculine, slightly aloof personality at the moment. It is nicely focused, but it needs to just let its hair down a little on the finish. It is perhaps just a little too reserved for a Chambolle.

Smudgy nose – not the precision of the 2014s tasted at the same time. Sweet start and then acidity kicks in. Pretty wine without massive concentration. He says they haven’t closed yet, unlike the 2011s and 2012s. (JR)