Very closed on the nose, without much lift despite vigorous swirling of my glass. Touch of cherry, rose petals and strawberry. But the palate is very impressive with immense purity, delineation and focus. Morello cherry, blueberry, a touch of orange peel and peach. Very long length. Feminine and utterly refined. Outstanding. Drinking 2009-2018. Tasted January 2007.

Cathiard’s 2005 Nuits-St.-Georges Les Murgers offers beautifully-focused aromas and flavors of cassis, black raspberry, and meat stock. Quite creamy in texture, with chalky, smoky, brown spice, and floral inner-mouth character, this acts like a Nuits that could be Vosne. The combination of clarity with creaminess in the finish is uncanny. Also recommended: 2005 Bourgogne ($39.00;85). A Becky Wassserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet, Beaune; fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70

Good red-ruby. Enticing, dark aromas of cassis, blackberry, violet and bitter chocolate. Sweet and juicy in the mouth, with sappy flavors of raspberry and flowers. Perhaps strongest today on the firmly tannic, persistent finish, which offers lovely lingering sweetness.

Again, rather suppressed nose. Sylvain and Sebastian assured me the wine tastes much better from cask! Lovely, elegant palate full of full bloom fruit. Very, very expressive with real beginning, middle and end. Lovely appetising freshness on the end. (JR)