The 2014 Nuits Saint-Georges Aux Murgers 1er Cru is developing beautifully on the nose, perhaps shunning its nascent opulence and manifesting much more intriguing brambly black fruit, black truffle, iodine and seaweed scents. The palate is very well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, pliant tannins, dark berry fruit and a surprisingly structured, not austere but serious finish. Drinking beautifully now, this clearly has an evolution that will be fascinating to follow. Tasted at Maufoux in Chablis.

(60% new oak; cropped at 44 hectoliters per hectare): Deep red-ruby. Blackberry and dark chocolate aromas are lifted by a floral topnote. Not quite as dense as the Aux Thorey but juicy, spicy, minerally and firm--very much a Vosne-side Nuits. Finishes with terrific energy and a light touch, with a serious tannic spine that will require extended aging.

67% new oak. 70-year-old vines. Dark crimson and a very dense nose. Very youthful but with silky tannins and lots of savoury chew. Sweet fruit in short supply! But there is lift here and lots of tension. (JR)