The 2013 Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Aux Thorey, which is matured in 80% new oak, has a very seductive, nicely defined bouquet with strawberry and cranberry scents combining with cold limestone aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with confit red berry fruit on the entry, fine structure with a gentle grip on the marine influenced finish. This is a very fine Aux Thorey, although it would have been enhanced with say, 50% new oak rather than 80%.

Cathiard's 2013 Nuits St. Georges Aux Thorey is packed with implosive energy. Dark blue and black stone fruits, smoke, spice and new leather come through, but the 2013 remains tightly wound, with imposing tannins and notable concentration. I expect the 2013 is going to need a good decade to start strutting its stuff. Still, there is plenty to look forward to.

80% new oak. Vines 60+ years old – the same age as Sylvain. Quite heady. Fizzy and lively. Not quite the density you’d like. Very introvert. Tight and a little tough and inky on the end. (JR)