Cathiard's 2017 Vosne-Romanée is showing brilliantly from bottle, wafting from the glass with aromas of sweet berry fruit, warm spices, woodsmoke, musk and rich soil tones. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, supple and enveloping, with lively acids, excellent depth at the core and a long, exotically perfumed finish.

The 2017 Vosne-Romanée Village, which is matured in 50% new oak, has a discreet, perfumed bouquet that gently unfolds in the glass to reveal black cherries, violet and peony. The medium-bodied palate of sappy red and black fruit is quite grippy in the mouth, leading to a tightly coiled, saline finish.

Sweetly spiced oak on the nose. Wonderful sour cherry and liquorice flavours on the palate, akin to northern Italy in some ways, but with more delicate structure. Long and refined. Something ferrous and elemental on the finish. (RH)