The 2002 Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru Les Malconsorts is beginning to drink extremely well. It has a lucid garnet core that is still quite youthful given that it now has a little mileage in bottle. The bouquet is exquisite. There is nothing shy and retiring here, with open and generous raspberry, orange sorbet and hints of gingerbread bursting forth but remaining tightly controlled and focused. The palate is ripe on the entry with firm but fine tannins. This is still a little masculine with a strong saline tang at first, gradually mutating into touches of star anis and cooked meat. It retains superb structure, and is a Les Malconsorts built for the long haul. Wonderful! Drink 2018-2030. Tasted June 2014.

Cask sample. Oak a bit obvious still. Sweet fruit but a slight lack of intensity. OK but lacks the spark of some of his 2001s. (JR)