The 1992 Meursault Les Perrières 1er Cru from Coche-Dury is a brilliant wine – period. It has a refulgent silvery hue that belies its age. The aromatics are perhaps more Puligny-like than Meursault in style: taut at first with subtle melted butter and yellow flower aromas. It is blessed with astonishing delineation and returning to my glass after 90 minutes...wow...popcorn, roasted almond, beeswax, linseed, certainly more Meursault-like in character. The palate is crisp, fresh and tensile at first, with wonderful salinity. This just gets the taste-buds going and there is tangible mineralité. Like the aromatics, it becomes more Meursault-like with aeration, gaining complexity with rondeur, hazelnut and smoke towards the mercurial finish. This is utterly sublime. Two bottles tasted at Tour d’Argent with consistent notes.

Tasting note: This is one of the top ten wines of the vintage and a wine that I have enjoyed many times. The nose explodes from the glass offering intense minerality, wet stones and a trace of exotic aromas. The thrill ride continues with medium weight, full, rich, impressively layered flavors dripping with minerality followed by a vibrant, palate staining, immensely long finish. An incredible performance that from this format is still very young; from fifth, the 92 Perrières is just now approaching its peak though it should hold there for many years.