Insiders know just how great its 2005 sibling is, but Coche's 2002 Meursault Les Rougeots might be even better. This particular bottle was at the peak of its powers, offering up aromas of crisp orchard fruit, toasted sesame, waxy citrus rind, iodine and freshly baked bread. Medium to full-bodied, seamless and complete, with terrific depth and tension, it's a satiny, incisive white Burgundy that entirely upends the appellation hierarchy.

Explosive aromas of peach, minerals, spices, vanilla and hazelnut; pure, perfumed and unmistakably Meursault. Offers compelling sweetness and pliant texture, with captivating, mouthfilling peach and mineral flavors. As full as this is, it's not a particularly plump style owing to its impression of solidity and vibrant, harmonious acids. A real knockout: village wine simply doesn't get any better than this.

This remains exceptionally fresh and bright with ripe orchard fruit notes and hints of pain grillé giving way to detailed yet rich medium full flavors that are just now beginning to open though the finish remains firm. This will clearly require several more years to be at its best.

First bottle : TCA. Second bottle: Truffle and an exotic rich savoury nose here! At the height of its powers. Lots of density and savour. Not sweet at all but with great depth. Richness. Length. Like green caramel. With great race, but weight and density too. Strong. Pungent and with a strong green streak but nothing at all weak about this. Great now. Classy and savoury. (JR)