The 2010 Puligny-Montrachet Les Enseigneres opens with a wonderfully nuanced, layered bouquet that leads to a core of explosive fruit. It reveals remarkable energy all the way through to the clean, taut finish. This is a fabulous showing. Anticipated maturity: 2015+. Raphael Coche-Dury is just past his 30th birthday, but he has already spent more than half his life working at the family’s illustrious domaine. It is quite evident Raphael Coche intends to follow his father footsteps, so the future seems to be in very capable hands. Coche describes 2010 as a cold vintage, but one with a lot of concentration because of the extensive coulure (shatter). Conditions in 2009 were pretty much the diametrical opposite. August was very warm, which caused challenges as sugars mounted quickly, but the fruit was healthy. Coche told me he wasn’t a huge fan of the vintage, but found the wines improved as they freshened up after the malos. Coche-Dury fans know the estate bottles three separate Meursaults at the villages level which are unfortunately not identified on the labels, which personally I find a bit frustrating. Qualitatively the three wines are quite similar, but their personalities are not. I have provided notes on all three of the 2010s and two of the 2009s, but readers will have to check with their suppliers to know for certain which wine they are buying. The 2009s should drink well relatively early and appear to have the stuffing to also age very well. The 2010s may very well prove to be nearly immortal. Let me just say I can’t wait to taste these wines in finished form from bottle. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524

Less expressive on the nose than the Meursault Rougeots. Tight, fine and very muscular. Almost like lemon juice! Still quite astringent. (JR)