The 2010 Charmes-Chambertin is pure sensuality and finesse. Sweet red cherries, freshly cut flowers and mint are woven together in a finessed fabric bursting with style and class. This is a terrific showing. Giroud’s Charmes is true Charmes from the upper part of the vineyard. The fruit was 100% destemmed. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2030. Winemaker David Croix describes 2010 as being similar to 2002, but with more tension. The harvest started on September 23. About two-thirds of the wines were lightly chaptalized. None of these wines had been racked at the time of my visit in November 2011. Giroud fans will note the addition of two new Volnays to the lineup. I will report on the maison’s 2009s in the April issue. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including Grand Cru Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 974-2500; Veritas Imports, Beverly Hills, CA; tel. (310) 205-3803; Toepfer Imports LLC, CO; tel. (303) 818-7640

(true Charmes, from vines planted north-south right below Chambertin): Bright deep red with ruby highlights. Musky, meaty, reduced nose hints at minerals and dried rose ("this wine is always open and charming but not today," notes Croix). Then seamless and lively in the mouth, with a delicate saline element adding interesting to the sweet red fruit and soil flavors. Nicely open-knit and round in the mouth, more delicate than deep. The suave tannins melt into the fruit on the lovely mounting finish.

Pale ruby. Frivolous almost. Certainly very fresh and flirtatious. Oddly enough. Sweet and fresh and racy. Quite transparent. Fresh and crunchy fruit. (JR)