2010 Camille Giroud, Chambertin Grand Cru

(made from the equivalent of 2-1/2 barrels of fruit and 1 barrel of wine): Good full, bright red. Highly complex nose combines cherry, raspberry, spices, flowers, minerals and crushed stone. Sweet, fine-grained and concentrated; at once powerful and suave thanks to its excellent balance. Finishes sappy, saline, stony and long, leaving the mouth feeling refreshed.

The 2010 Chambertin is a model of buttoned-up restraint and class. With time layers of silky, perfumed fruit emerge from the glass. There is a seamless quality to the Chambertin that is quite striking. Currently, it isn't as vibrant as the Latricières, but it will be interesting to see what happens once the wine goes into bottle. For now the 2010 is playing its cards very close to the vest. David Croix used 30% whole clusters on the Chambertin.

Very fine and concentrated and firm and upstanding. Dense and savoury. Liquorice and pure and unadulterated. Sweet and fine. Layered. Hidden depths. Lipsmacking but just a tad too sweet for perfection. (JR)