2013 Domaine Chandon de Briailles, Corton Grand Cru, Les Marechaudes

(vinified with 30% whole clusters; this finished its malolactic fermentation in August): Bright, dark red. Aromas of cherry, flowers, spices and pepper are lifted by a pungent limestone topnote. Juicy, sappy and sweet; more evolved and showy today owing to the earlier malo. The building tannins are firm but elegant and not at all dry, with the finish delivering lovely length and grip. I like the influence of the stems here.

The 2013 Corton les Maréchaudes Grand Cru, which sees around 20% new oak, has a cohesive, blackcurrant and blueberry-scented bouquet with just a hint of baking powder. The palate is medium-bodied with a harmonious, silky texture, moderate depth with good precision toward the finish. It feels sappy in the mouth with its salinity urging another sip and it should drink well over the next 8-10 years.