The 2014 Corton Clos du Roi Grand Cru has the most expressive nose of the three Cortons from Chandon des Briailles - very succinct with neatly placed red fruit, limestone and oyster shell scents that gently waft from the glass. The palate is taut and linear like its two "siblings," yet there is more substance and depth here, a touch more volume and sweetness towards the saline finish. This will require 4-5 years in the cellar, but it will be worth waiting for. Kingly!

(vinified with 80% whole clusters and aged in 20% new oak; 12. 8% natural alcohol):Very ripe aromas of redcurrant and milk chocolate. Suave, silky and sweet in the mouth, conveying an impression of almost exotic chocolatey ripeness leavened by a rose petal element. Finishes with serious, mouth-dusting tannins and a repeating chocolate character. This wine carries a high 3. 9 pH but will need time to resolve its tannins. Claude de Nicolay describes it as "a red Charlemagne," noting that the vineyard lies at a very high altitude of 350 meters.