Aromas of cassis, plums, grilled squab and rich soil tones, elegantly framed by new wood, introduce the 2017 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Perrières, a medium to full-bodied wine that's firmer and more tensile in profile, with a deep core of sappy fruit, structured around fine-grained, chalky tannins that assert themselves on the long finish. This was a little less put together than some of Chevillon's 2017s when I tasted it, but its excellent potential is impossible to miss.

The 2017 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Perrières 1er Cru has a more compact bouquet compared to the Les Bousselots, very focused and precise and natural in style; a faint oyster shell scent percolates through the dark berry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, hints of Moroccan spice and leather, lovely cohesion and just a hint of dark chocolate toward the finish. Excellent.