Cassis and black raspberry take on both liqueur-like richness and distillate-like high tones in the Chevillon 2006 Nuits-St.-Georges Les Vaucrains - analogous to the expression of ripeness in other wines of this collection. And here, too, the roasted sense of low-toned richness suggests chocolate and peat, while bitter notes of fruit pit and iodine add welcome contrast and further basis for fugal interchange of flavors in a long, intensely concentrated finish. On the one hand, this seems more embryonic than its fellow crus, but on the other hand its opulence and interplay of flavors are already utterly seductive and intriguing. In any case, however much of this one acquires, it would be foolish not to stretch those bottles out over a dozen or more years. Given the superb track record of this estate's wines even in perceived weak and/or youthfully generous vintages - I think, for example, of the youthfully delicious 1992s I purchased at deeply-discounted prices and only recently finished enjoying - it would be foolish to admonish Burgundy lovers to drink their 2006s up early. Nevertheless, like so many of the best wines of this vintage, they are for the most part already on call - or very soon will be - to deliver generously. Bertrand Chevillon reports that little sorting was required above the level of village wines (the team here began picking Pinot September 22), and that while alcoholic fermentation was unusually protracted, the course of elevage from the standpoint of human interaction was unexceptional, save for backing off a pit on pigeage. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524

Bright, deep ruby-red. Aromas of dark berry liqueur and bitter chocolate are sappy and liqueur-like but with outstanding energy. Quite full and powerful for a wine from this cellar, with outstanding sweetness and breadth to its flavors of blackberry, chocolate and roast coffee. Downright explosive on the finish, the noble tannins totally buffered by a wave of fruit.