As usual, the 2017 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Vaucrains is the most structured, tight-knit wine in the Chevillon cellar, unwinding in the glass with aromas of cassis, dark chocolate and rich soil, framed by smoky new oak. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, richly tannic and concentrated, with imposingly broad shouldered structure and a deep, reserved core. Again, patience will be required and rewarded.

The 2017 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Vaucrains 1er Cru has a little more precision than the Les Saint-Georges on the nose: the terroir more articulated, greater energy conveyed by the aromatics. The pure, precise palate is beautifully balanced with filigreed tannin and an effervescent and very sustained finish that is pure class. This could well be the standout from Chevillon this year. A wine from the top drawer.

Barrel sample, racked after malo only. Ripe fruit but fresher on the nose than the Cailles. Seductively rich in cherry fruit. Incredibly smooth tannins with some vanilla sweetness on the palate. Deep and long and with the harmony for a long future. (JH)