There is just a touch of greenness on the nose to this Village Cru, but it seems to diminish with aeration – perhaps a little whole bunch in here? The palate has a tannic entry, lots of blackberry, dark cherry and black tea occupying the middle, tannic and weighty towards the finish that has real weight and persistency, but perhaps misses a little elegance. Tasted January 2011.

The 2009 Nuits St. Georges is round, sexy, showy and very 2009 in character. Early notes of aromatic complexity are just beginning to develop in bottle, making this a highly attractive wine to drink now and over the next handful of years. Sweet cherries, tobacco, spices and leather inform the creamy, textured finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. My tasting with Denis and Bertrand Chevillon was one of the highlights of my most recent trip to Burgundy. The domaine’s 2009s are flat-out beautiful. Readers will not want to miss these gems. Importer: Kermit Lynch, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524