The 2016 Nuits-Saint-Georges Vieilles Vignes is showing beautifully, unwinding in the glass with aromas of sweet berry fruit, dark chocolate, rich soil tones and orange rind. Medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, it's unusually concentrated in this frost-impacted vintage—to the extent that when Bertrand Chevillon presented it blind, I mistook it for one of his premiers crus. Its fine showing underscores what a good vintage this is chez Chevillon.

The 2016 Nuits Saint Georges Village, which was also touched by frost, offers lovely rustic redcurrant and cranberry fruit on the nose. The palate is marked by quite firm tannin, fresh acidity, more masculine and structured than the 2015 with not quite the same persistence on the finish. Not bad, but it will need 18 to 20 months in bottle.