Clair’s 2005 Chambertin Clos de Beze – from vines going back to 1913 – displays black raspberry, cassis, licorice, and sea spray in the nose. Delivering a formidably concentrated but unusually vigorous and dynamic impression of this great site, it bursts with black fruit and meat juices, along with soy sauce, then showers the palate with site-typical rose petals in a finish of brightness, grip, and vibratory intensity. Here is a thoroughbred that is a real racer ... but I would expect to wait a decade after placing my bets. Bruno Clair and his long-time cellar master Philippe Brun persist in rendering Pinots of uncompromising structure and fruit acid retention that are by no means long on youthful charm. Their 2005 collection was all still in barrel, from which I did selected tasting rather than (with one already assembled exception) tasting an at all precise reflection of the final blend. A small percentage of whole clusters was employed on the Gevrey crus, rising to 20% in the Clos de Beze. Brun decides whether or not to filter based on the character of the vintage and the result of trials. In 2005, he won’t. A couple of the Marsannays here were showing a rather awkward alternation between bright fresh fruit acidity and caramelized faintly wood tones, but admittedly, with larger cuvees, that is a tricky thing to judge prior to assemblange. Also recommended: 2005 Marsannay Vaudenelles ($32.00; 85-87+?), 2005 Marsannay Grasse Tetes ($39.00; 85-87+?). Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

Consistent notes. Drink: 2020+
-Tasted: Jan 01, 2008. Issue 29

(92-95 pts)
Don't miss! The most complete wine here with a spicy, earthy, gamy and strikingly elegant if presently reserved nose of musky black cherry fruit aromas that introduce rich, sweet and mouth coating flavors that explode on the strikingly long finish. This is a classy thoroughbred of a wine with superb complexity, impeccable balance and huge length, all delivered with both grace and power. Be prepared to be patient however as this will need time. Drink: 2017+
-Tasted: Jan 01, 2007. Issue 25

Very closed on the nose like Clair’s Clos Saint Jacques, with faint scents of blackberry, raspberry, granite and a touch of iron. Broody and sullen at the moment. The palate is a different proposition: full-bodied, vigorous with spicy red berried fruit. Some chewy tannin but no astringency spoiling the finish to this great wine. Powerful: this will benefit from some cellaring but it has the breeding to last long-term. Tasted January 2007. Drink 2012-2020

Lively, delicate, dancing fruit. Very, very lively. Very exciting. Lovely race. Long. Reverberation. Real layers and tip top. (JR)