The 2015 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.-Jacques 1er Cru has the most backward bouquet of the five Clos St.-Jacques at the moment, displaying a marine-like tincture of shucked oyster shells and a hint of estuary marshes that actually complement the red fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin and slightly lactic in style. A hint of dark chocolate emanates from the oak infusing the red and black fruit toward the finish, and touches of marmalade and blood orange linger on the aftertaste. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting.

Bursting with aromas of cedar, raw cocoa, orange rind, rose petal, red cherries and dried currants, the 2015 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St Jacques is medium to full-bodied, fragrant and supple, with melting tannins, a sappy core of fruit and tangy balancing acids. It's a perfumed, beautifully balanced wine that I marked down a few points simply because it struck me as somewhat stylized, so my score will likely look conservative in a few years' time.

(vinified with 25% whole clusters): Medium red. Very sexy, soil-driven scents of wild strawberry, raspberry, underbrush and rose petal. Fine-grained and utterly seamless in texture, with its soil-driven red berry flavors framed and enlivened by strong mineral and floral elements. A step up in inner-mouth tension than the foregoing samples. At once dense and weightless, this is by far the longest to this point of Clair's 2015s, finishing with strong saline minerality that excites the tastebuds. With its dusty, well-supported tannins, this wine should evolve slowly and gracefully.