From vines planted in 1902, the Clair 2005 Savigny-les-Beaune La Dominodes is uncompromisingly concentrated, meaty, salty and pithy. Scents of wood smoke, tobacco, bitter black fruits and pungent herbs rise from the glass. This stains the palate like a medicinal remedy of black cherry, tincture of iodine, and herbal essences. (What’s the disease? I’ll catch it!) Amazingly sinewy, muscular and energetic, it epitomizes the uncompromising, lean Bruno Clair style, not to mention the fruit of vines too old to waste their juices trying to flatter the critics. Arguably the greatest wine in Savigny, Clair’s Dominode nearly always needs close to a decade to repay its price, and this year I’d say “longer”. Bruno Clair and his long-time cellar master Philippe Brun persist in rendering Pinots of uncompromising structure and fruit acid retention that are by no means long on youthful charm. Their 2005 collection was all still in barrel, from which I did selected tasting rather than (with one already assembled exception) tasting an at all precise reflection of the final blend. A small percentage of whole clusters was employed on the Gevrey crus, rising to 20% in the Clos de Beze. Brun decides whether or not to filter based on the character of the vintage and the result of trials. In 2005, he won’t. A couple of the Marsannays here were showing a rather awkward alternation between bright fresh fruit acidity and caramelized faintly wood tones, but admittedly, with larger cuvees, that is a tricky thing to judge prior to assemblange. Also recommended: 2005 Marsannay Vaudenelles ($32.00; 85-87+?), 2005 Marsannay Grasse Tetes ($39.00; 85-87+?). Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

Good medium ruby-red. Sappy berries and dark cherry on the nose, complicated by licorice, herbs and minerals. Juicy and tightly wound, dominated by its firm acid spine today; this has not recovered from its racking two weeks before my visit. But this firmly tannic wine possesses very good aromatic lift. (I rated this wine ahead of the Chambolle-Musigny, Vosne-Romanee and Gevrey-Chambertin village wines here, although the latter two showed solid 86-89 potential.)

This lacks some harmony on the nose with strawberry, a touch of mushroom and leather. Very tannic on the palate with a lot of dry extract. Good weight, muscular and rustic. Some astringency on the finish. May improve with more time in bottle. Tasted January 2007. Drink 2009-2011

A bit solid and stolid. Comes to a bit of a dead end. (JR)