(13% natural alcohol, with a pH of 3.25): Sappy aromas of black cherry, licorice, menthol and flowers. Densely packed but juicy and light on its feet, with excellent energy and spicy sweetness to its dark fruit and floral flavors. Noteworthy inner-mouth tension and chewiness here. This silky, tactile wine really builds on the back end, finishing with suave tannins.

The 2012 Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru Aux Brulees was showing a touch of reduction on the nose, although the palate was expressive and shows swagger. There are plenty of red and black fruit intermingling in the mouth, pierced by a fine line of acidity. The wine gently builds to a structured finish that suggests this will age in suitable fashion for a premier cru. Drink 2016-2026+. Importer: Vins Divins (Michael Stephens); www.divine-burgundy-wine.com