The 2021 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru was taken from tank rather than barrel. This was primal on the nose and difficult to read. The palate is more expressive: finely tuned with a fine bead of acidity, tensile and saline, it does not possess the complexity of Raveneau's Les Clos tasted an hour or two before, but it has great penetration and a compelling flinty finish. Excellent. Sept 2022

Vines for this cuvée of Les Clos (Les Clos des Hospices is vinified separately) are planted all the way up the Les Clos grand cru. Vines have an average of 55 years. White Kimmeridgian clay, facing due south. Vinified 50% in stainless-steel tank, 50% in oak barrels. Tank sample. Deep lemon. Turns the volume down after the Valmur. This is all taught and very linear. Purposeful, with an understated, concentrated subtlety and elegance that belie the wine’s evident power. (MH)

Half was fermented in oak. Better yields here (35 hl/ha cf 12 hl/ha for the premiers crus) because they could protect the wines from the frost using bougies. Tank sample. Subtle nose that is classic Chablis: mineral/stony, hints of citrus and green fruits – so subtle. Richer on the palate thanks to the creaminess from the oak and the lees but still pretty crisp. Long, sour-fresh finish. (JH)