The 2017 Chablis Vaillons Cuvée Guy Moreau 1er Cru is subtle and polished, with lovely textural depth and resonance. Apricot, orange confit, mint and French oak all meld together in a Chablis that deftly balances hints of exotic, tropical character with an attractive sense of understatement. As always, the Guy Moreau is a wine of texture and resonance.

The 2017 Chablis Vaillons Cuvée Guy Moreau 1er Cru, which comes from the oldest vines in the vineyard, is again, a little closed on the nose and tricky to read. The palate is very well balanced with a fine line of acidity, a little more richness and smoothness compared to the regular bottling with gorgeous dried honey and walnut note furnishing the long finish. Superb.

A special old-vine plot planted in the 1930s. Dense, hazelnut notes. Then really rich, bright fruit underneath. Cool freshness too. What’s not to like? (JR)