The 2017 Chablis Vaudésir Grand Cru is intensely mineral and savory in style. Dried herbs, licorice, honey, chamomile, and earthy tones dominate, while the fruit is very much in the background. A Chablis of structure and power, Vaudésir has plenty to offer. It is one of the most distinctive and also reticent wines in this lineup. I would give it a few years to soften. The saline finish is very pretty and bodes well for the future.

The 2017 Chablis Vaudésir Grand Cru is reduced to four barrels this year because of frost. It has a hint of honeysuckle and beeswax on the nose, very well defined and focused with a light earthy tincture. The palate is well balanced with a fine line of acidity, very strict and linear, classic Chablis in style with a flinty, saline finish that does not outstay its welcome. This is very fine although at the moment it is a couple of paces behind the Valmur.