The 2018 Chablis Vaillons 1er Cru, blended from six parcels, is pure, focused and taut, all while expressing the natural richness of the year. Lemon confit, white flowers, white pepper, mint and a kiss of French oak add striking aromatic top notes to match the wine's linear, energetic feel. The Vaillons has a surprising amount of freshness and lift, with bright saline notes that extend the finish. I suspect the opulence of the year will emerge more fully over time, but this is nevertheless a fine showing.

The 2018 Chablis Vaillon 1er Cru, matured 30% in barrel and the remainder in tank, has a delightful bouquet of citrus fruit, quince and light waxy aromas. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, and quite taut toward the finish, revealing hints of sour lemon and orange peel. Nice edginess here.