The 2014 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru impresses in terms of purity on the nose, although after more than a decade, there remains a patina of oak that needs to be subsumed. Hints of fennel and freshly baked brioche join the citrus fruit with time. The palate is powerful with superb grip, just a little honeyed in texture. It delivers the complexity and mineralité you expect from this noble vineyard, and its persistence deserves applause.

(the Colin-Deleger 2014s did their malos later than the Bruno Colin wines aged in the same cellar): Aromas of pineapple, smoke, butter and nuts, plus a powerful spicy oak element. Fat, round, full and rich, with rather full-blown flavors of yellow stone fruits, pineapple and smoky oak; less woody on the palate than on the nose. The very long, slowly mounting finish shows some edgy acidity.