Pierre-Yves Colin's 2015 Bourgogne Chardonnay is a lovely wine in this vintage, offering up a classy bouquet of preserved lemon, fresh pear, wheat toast and a judicious top note of smoky reduction. On the palate the wine is medium-bodied and quite tense for the vintage and appellation, with a bright line of acidity, good depth and intensity, and a precise finish. A lovely introduction to the house style. I followed a bottle from my own cellar over three days, and the last glass was the best.

The 2015 Bourgogne Chardonnay includes some fruit from En Remilly this year, specifically from bunches where the warm summer had dried the berries a little too much. It has an attractive bouquet with tropical tones (guava and dried pineapple), though well defined. The palate is rounded, slightly viscous on the entry with quite piercing acidity on the back palate. I feel that it needs a little more harmony, but it should offer decent drinking pleasure over the next couple of years.

Cask sample. Parcels in St-Aubin and Puligny. A bit different this year because he included the young-vine (22 years!) parcel of Remilly, which suffered from July drought. Sleek and very mineral on the nose. Masses to chew on and great length. Really very smart indeed. Picked latest. VGV (JR)