(100% real Charmes): Saturated medium ruby. The nose exudes incredible perfume for such a ripe year, offering scents of blackberry, licorice, lilac, violet, rose petal and leather, plus a slightly exotic suggestion of fruit salad. Boasts similar flavors in the mouth, offering uncanny liqueur-like ripeness leavened by terrific lift. This wonderfully sweet, slightly wild wine displays explosive silky fruit and great juicy depth. Really drenches the palate in flavor on the very broad, resounding finish, with the tannins virtually invisible today. When Yves Confuron wondered out loud if some of the 2015s could turn out to be like '47s, he might well have had this wine in mind. A stunning showing.

Cask sample. Rich, stewed bramble fruits – clearly from a very powerful vintage and appellation. The tannin is firm but with bevelled edges, and the acid integrates very well. It is ornate and impressive – but perhaps not hugely 'better' than their Lavaut St-Jacques premier cru. (RH)