(bottled in April of this year, a month or two later than the other 2014 white wines at this address): The nose offers perfumed scents of lavender and white pepper complemented by sweet oak. Then sappy, spicy and brisk on the palate, but with a silky texture to its intense lemon, mineral and spice flavors. At once serious and wonderfully fine-grained, like a young Chevalier-Montrachet should be. The palate-saturating finish features saline soil tones and excellent mineral lift. Incidentally, this wine is made at the Domaine de Montille cellar in Meursault.

In a very stony parcel that produces lighter wines than most Chevaliers. 40-year-old vines. Relatively lightweight but obviously savoury and fine. Tight and refined. Very charming. Quite open – I could imagine this as a great treat in a restaurant though probably not a standout in a blind geeks’ tasting. (JR)