The 2011 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has a delightful bouquet with complex, mineral rich red currant and raspberry fruit that is linear and focused at the moment. There is wonderful definition as usual. The palate is medium-bodied with a smear of strawberry jam on the entry and then that heavenly mineralite kicks in towards the structure, precise and quite crystalline finish. Awesome. Drink 2016-2030+. When tasting through Denis Bachelet’s 2012s, he invited a run through his 2011s that provided a lucid juxtaposition between the two vintages, while reaffirming the commonly held notion that Denis has an innate ability to transcend the limitations of the growing season. His 2011s are some of the best you will find in the appellation from top to bottom, though in my mind the 2012s are more crystalline and contain more matiere. Here, I have also included two mature vintages of his jewel, Charmes-Chambertin: the 1987 a little gem from a forgotten vintage and the 2004, a potentially great wine besmirched by those seemingly ubiquitous “green meanies.” Importer: A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808; AOC Imports, CA; tel. (415) 279-8708; Toepfer Imports LLC, CO; tel. (303) 818-7640. Also available in UK through Howard Ripley, Berry Brothers & Rudd, Wine Society and A&B Vintners.

Normally eight barrels produced; in 2012 they made three and a half. Coopers must have sold many feuillettes in 2012. Muscular chestnut nose. Really quite rich for a 2011 and yet supple. Approaching richness, anyway, though low key. Very good for a 2011; a little muted overall. Trademark richness. Very clean and pure. He wanted to make wines for gourmandise and regrets that no English word exists. (JR)