Denis has just three barrels of the 2014 Gevrey Chambertin les Evocelles this year from Denis' 0.17-hectares of vine planted in 1961 and 1969. It has, what I would describe as a very natural nose, nonchalant and refined, nothing over the top with gentle redcurrant and strawberry fruit, as well as an undertow of cold stone. The palate is just beautiful: filigree tannin, precise and focused, mineral rich on the finish that has not a hair out of place. This might well be the best "village cru" that I have ever tasted from barrel.

(67% new oak): Bright, dark red. Deeper and earthier on the nose than the basic village offering, and more dominated in the early going by its oak component. Broader and sweeter in the mouth, with cherry fruit complicated by saline minerality. This lovely horizontal wine really saturates the palate without leaving an impression of weightiness. Finishes serious, broad and long, with fine-grained tannins. An outperformer for village wine. (My sample of the Gevrey-Chambertin Corbeaux Vieilles Vignes, from a 375-ml. bottle, seemed a bit dry and tired, but it's almost certainly not representative of the wine.)

Above Brochon. Some strong chestnuts on the nose. Rich fruits and great energy. Great texture and vivacity. Beginning, middle and end. (JR)