Gorgeous nose: lightly floral, spicy and cherry-scented with an array of floral expressions. Layered and intense; subtle and approachable.

The 2011 Gevrey-Chambertin Village has a complex bouquet: deep broody dark fruit, cold flint, undergrowth, hints of wild mushroom furnishing the aromatics. The palate is silky smooth with supple tannins, perfectly pitched acidity and a sensual, smooth raspberry and wild strawberry finish that is more like a 2012 than 2011. This is just divine – one of the best village crus you will track down in this vintage. Drink now-2024. When tasting through Denis Bachelet’s 2012s, he invited a run through his 2011s that provided a lucid juxtaposition between the two vintages, while reaffirming the commonly held notion that Denis has an innate ability to transcend the limitations of the growing season. His 2011s are some of the best you will find in the appellation from top to bottom, though in my mind the 2012s are more crystalline and contain more matiere. Here, I have also included two mature vintages of his jewel, Charmes-Chambertin: the 1987 a little gem from a forgotten vintage and the 2004, a potentially great wine besmirched by those seemingly ubiquitous “green meanies.” Importer: A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808; AOC Imports, CA; tel. (415) 279-8708; Toepfer Imports LLC, CO; tel. (303) 818-7640. Also available in UK through Howard Ripley, Berry Brothers & Rudd, Wine Society and A&B Vintners.

The 2011 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes stands out for its striking aromatics, expressive fruit and total finesse. Silky and impeccably balanced on the palate, the Gevrey impresses for its depth and freshness. The 2011 is soft, supple and silky, with tons of near-term appeal; in other words, it is everything a village-level Burgundy should be in a vintage like 2011.

Good deep red with ruby highlights. Lovely violet lift to the pure aromas of black cherry, blackberry, pepper and spices. Nicely concentrated and expressive, showing a distinctly savory quality to its griotte cherry and licorice flavors. Finishes longer than the Cote de Nuits-Villages, and with more obvious oak tannins too. Built to age.

75-year-old vines. 1.5 ha in total. Real complexity on the nose. Mossy and autumnal. But relatively light and fresh and fruity on the palate. Because the wine is quite light, the acidity seems quite marked. Racy and easy on the palate, although I expect it will take on weight. (JR)