The 2013 Gevrey-Chambertin Village Vieilles Vignes has another broody bouquet cut from the same cloth as the Côtes de Nuits: brambly black fruit mixed with woodland, almost wet sand aromas. These aromatics take you down into the earth instead of up into the air. The palate is medium-bodied with supple, sorbet-fresh red cherry and boysenberry fruit. This is full of energy, full of vim and vigour with a harmonious finish that delivers a touch of bitter lemon that lends it edge. Superb.

Bright and delineated, the 2013 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes is a terrific example of the year. Wild flowers, dark stone fruits, mint, crushed rocks, spices and leather are all given an extra kick of brightness in an energetic, chiseled Gevrey that delivers the goods. There is a lot to like here.

Bright red with ruby tones. Wild scents of blackberry, blueberry and violet, complicated by game, underbrush and leather nuances. Creamy on entry, then sappy and taut in the middle, with an urgent intensity to the vibrant flavors of crushed black fruits, bitter chocolate and minerals. Has more stuffing to support its bright acidity and tannic spine than the Côte de Nuits-Villages. Finishes salty and bright.

75-year-old vines. 1.5 ha total . Very rich and jewelly on the nose. A tiny bit restrained on the end but Denis is sure it will continue to acquire flesh in cask. (JR)