The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes is also showing beautifully, wafting from the glass with aromas of cassis, plums and cherries mingled with sweet soil tones, grilled meats and dark chocolate. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, broad and textural, with a velvety attack, lovely purity of fruit and a long, precise finish.

Matured in around 50% new oak, the 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes has (another) gorgeous and pure bouquet with small dark cherries, raspberry preserve and subtle violet notes. The new oak is seamlessly integrated. The palate is medium-bodied with supple red and black fruit, lightly spiced with a slightly confit-like finish. Divine.

85-year-old vines. 1.5 ha (3.7 acres) total. 50% new oak (I tasted a sample blend of two barrels) . An inviting combination of oak sweetness and dark-fruit sweetness on the nose. A touch of dark spice. Fresh and super-fine on the palate, concentrated but without excess, lovely balance. Almost cassis-like in fruit character. Incredibly moreish and gouleyant . Supple already and very long. (JH)