For reports and full tasting notes, go toTim Atkin MW's website.

Small is definitely beautiful as far as this bijou Gevrey-Chambertin domaine is concerned, as it consistently produces some of the best wines in the appellation. Deeply coloured, as Denis Bachelet's Pinots often are in their youth, this comes from six different parcels across the village and is aged in 40% new wood. Plush, juicy and well balanced, it has a winning combination of raspberry and black cherry fruit and sculpted tannins.

The 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes soars from the glass with a rich bouquet of cassis, plums and dark berries mingled with notes of rose petal, loamy soil and grilled meats. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, velvety and sapid, with fine concentration, ripe tannins and an expansive finish. Broader and more muscular by comparison with the finer-boned, more incisive Evocelles, this is a classic expression of Gevrey-Chambertin.

The 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes sees 40% new oak. It has a beautifully defined bouquet of pure raspberry preserve, cranberry and floral scents that unfurl in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a citrus-fresh opening and marmalade and tangerine notes infusing the red fruit. The pretty, very expressive finish maybe just misses the depth of, say, the 2016. Still, this is a lovely wine.

85-year-old vines. 1.5 ha (3.7 acres) total. 40% new oak. Light toast. Barrel sample. Very interesting aroma because although the fruit is so dark, it is not sweet. Intense black cherry. Generous yet tightly wound thanks to the freshness and the cool tannic finesse (and probably also the cool temperature of the barrel sample). Wine is capricious, volunteers Denis Bachelet. Precision in the fruit. Already relatively open yet promises more. Dark-fruited elegance. (JH)