Good medium red. Spicy red and black cherry aromas lifted by a floral note. Rich, round and spicy, showing good tension and sexy earth tones to the cherry and stone flavors. Finishes juicy and sweet, with dusty tannins.

The 2011 Gevrey-Chambertin is quite a bit deeper and fleshier than the Morey tasted alongside it. Anise and sweet herbs wrap around an expressive core of blue/blackish fruit in a mid-weight Gevrey to drink over the next few years, while the fruit retains its freshness.

The 2011 Gevrey-Chambertin Village has a pleasant, sappy red berry bouquet with tertiary, almost undergrowth tones. The palate is medium-bodied with light tannins, herbaceous red fruit and a slightly attenuated finish. Drink now-2015. I have been visiting Jeremy and Alec Seysses at Domaine Dujac for several years now, and it is always one of my favorite ports of call. Alec, looking surprisingly chipper for a new dad had taken time off nappy duty to guide me through the 2011s this year. I have to confess that I was concerned by the conspicuous nature of the new oak on both their negociant label wines and the entry Village Crus. I felt that 35% new oak tended to overwhelm the fruit and terroir and occasionally impart drying finishes, which is why my scores are parsimonious here. As I tasted through the range toward the flock of Grand Crus the oak seemed better assimilated, although I would still maintain that the wine is of such quality that the present level of oak risks being superfluous to requirements. All the negociant label wines were bottled before Christmas. Importers: The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (415) 491-4724; Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 642-5500