Medium red. Classic expressive Gevrey scents of raspberry, cherry, underbrush and musky minerality. Then juicy and savory in the mouth, conveying subtle earth tones and an umami deliciousness but little obvious fruit sweetness today. The wine's salinity and ripe acidity give it good inner-mouth tension.

The 2016 Gevrey-Chambertin Villages has a crisp blackberry and briary-scented bouquet. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin, nice backbone here with a structured, gritty finish that cannot disguise the 60-70% whole cluster at the moment, so afford this a year or two once bottled.

45% whole bunch. Smaller volume than usual but mainly because they lost a supplier. Bright garnet. Fresh and leafy on the nose but good round sweet fruit with good freshness on the palate. Pretty chewy tannins on the end. Simple but without the earthy grunt of many Gevreys. Rather a sleek interpretation. (JR)