(the 2012s were bottled at the end of June of 2014): Bright, deep red. Very ripe aromas of black cherry, licorice, spices and black pepper. Then closed in the mouth and tighter than the 2013 cuvée classique , with black cherry and bitter chocolate flavors lifted by mint and flowers. Very firmly structured, energetic, long Clos Vougeot with serious tannins saturating the mouth.

The 2012 Clos de Vougeot Cuvee Classique Grand Cru has a fragrant, seductive bouquet that dares suggest more complexity than the Vieilles Vignes. It is pure with lovely ripe raspberry, red plum and bergamot notes that are more expressive, at least at the moment. The palate is medium-bodied and feels silky and supple in the mouth. The red fruit are laced with white pepper and it offers a gradual crescendo toward a focused finish. Excellent. Drink 2017-2030. The wines from Chateau de la Tour have not been reviewed by this publication for years, principally because during the 1990s, quality trailed off. However, I have been noticing an upswing in recent vintages, in no small part due to the efforts of Francois Labat and his team that tend the 5.48 hectares of vine, including the single hectare planted in 1910, part of which is separated and released as a Vieilles Vignes. Their vines have been farmed organically since 1992 and Francois opts to prune hard early in the season rather than undertaking a green harvest, usually with whole-cluster, natural ferments. Approximately 50% new wood is used for the Cuvee Classique, while the Vieilles Vignes is raised entirely in new oak. Francois’s 2012s are well-worth checking out. This historic clos is notoriously fickle when it comes to quality, some growers producing astonishing wines and others trading on the name. Chateau de la Tour once might have been guilty of doing that, but these two wines suggest that this is no longer the case. Importer: Scott Paul Wines, Carlton, OR; tel. (503) 852-7300; and also through Berry Brothers & Rudd in the UK.