Good dark red with ruby highlights. Deep, brooding aromas of black fruits, minerals and dark chocolate. Lush, sweet and layered, conveying a strong impression of sucrosité , but a rose petal quality gives the wine an unexpected light touch (and it's also bone-dry at under one gram per liter residual sugar, according to François Labet). The wine's richness is nicely leavened by a note of wild herbs and sound acidity. Finishes with plush, broad tannins and lovely lift and length. When I asked Labet when he would drink this wine, he responded: "Tonight." But he added that it will probably close up in bottle.

The 2013 Clos de Vougeot Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru, picked from 5 October according to Pierre Labet, has a fragrant bouquet, fresher than many other tasted, pure raspberry and wild strawberry fruit, nicely integrated oak. The palate is less rustic than many others, finely balanced, with moderate depth and just a bit of hardness on the finish that one can easily abide. Lovely, though would I cellar long-term? Probably no.

Tasted blind. Bright blackish ruby. Heady, gamey nose with quite a bit of development. Real attention-grabber on the palate – more advanced than many. But with admirable concentration of fruit. Lots going on here. (JR)