Drunk in Burgundy from a French source, this bottle of the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti's 2006 Échézeaux Grand Cru was showing extremely well, opening in the glass with aromas of raspberries, cherries, spices and rose petals, framed by a deft patina of high-quality new oak. Full-bodied, voluptuous and layered, it's rich and muscular, with lively acids and plenty of powdery tannin. To my taste, this is still a decade away from maturity, though it is immensely pleasurable to drink now.

Domaine De La Romanee-Conti's 2006 Echezeaux is significantly more perfumed and brighter than the corresponding Duvault-Blochet cuvee. Cherry, red raspberry, and grenadine in the nose are alluringly entwined with bittersweet, iris-like floral perfume and tinged with flattering, oak-enhanced nutmeg and vanilla. This displays the levity and textural refinement one comes to cherish in so many of the better wines of its vintage, and the persistent sense of florality perfectly suits the lift and vivacity of an invigoratingly lingering finish. At the same time, there is marrow-like meaty richness to add depth. The equilibrium here seems to me typically of 2006, too, but de Villaine also credits the equilibrium that the vines here – now averaging 45 years of age – have attained. There is more than enough tannin in place to match the wine's energy and to insure at least 10-12 years of delight, but this is much more immediately charming than the corresponding 2005. The Domaine de La Romanee-Conti harvested from the 20th-25th of September (commencing with Richebourg) and subjected the crop to rigorous sorting. Understandably, the viticultural meticulousness at this estate as well as its team of some 60 highly-skilled and –motivated pickers paid dividends in the context of a challenging vintage. Director Aubert de Villaine and cellarmaster Bernard Noblet vinified their 2006s with a lesser share of stems and whole clusters, and exposed them to new wood for a shorter period (thereafter racking into older barrels) than the corresponding 2005s. Importer: Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661

Here the less expressive but very floral nose is spicier and ever so slightly riper with a range of black and blue fruit aromas nuanced by hints of earth and a touch of the sauvage that is also picked up by the rich, round and notably pure flavors that are more elegant than usual, all wrapped in a textured and punchy finish that is dry in the best sense and comes across as very clean and crisp. I very much like the overall sense of balance and about the only nit is a trace of backend warmth.

The 2006 Échézeaux is weightless, precise and finely cut, but it is also a touch fragile and missing some depth through the middle.

Good medium red. Tangy red fruit aromas of cherry, redcurrant and raspberry, complicated by spices and rose petal. Juicy and sweet, with lively spice character and bright acidity. Perhaps a bit lean toward the back but this is longer than the premier cru and shows an intriguing touch of minerality. Tannins are dusty but not dry. Today I like this sample nearly as much as the finished '05 Echezeaux.

Medium pale garnet. More obviously oak spice at first, a touch of vanilla and sweet strawberry fruit. Firm but infinitely fine tannins, leaving a tangy note on the tip of your tongue. Very focused yet still finely fragrant, and a little peppery. More peppery and tingly on the palate with fragrance to the very back of the palate. Finesse standing to attention. (JH)