The 2003 Grands-Echezeaux, which bursts with aromas of jammy blackberries as well as black cherries, is medium to full-bodied and fleshy. Sappy black fruits and distinctive notes of black chocolate are found in its expressive, bold personality. Refined, pure, and muscular, this wine exhibits huge amounts of firm – yet ripe – tannin. Projected maturity: 2009-2020. Importer: Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661

A limpid ruby hue, perhaps a little lighter than the Echezeaux. The nose is completely different: much more closed, more complex with black tea, earth and mushroom. Not so much fruit-driven: a wine of the "earth". Then develops after five minutes in the glass, becoming fresher, more lifted floral even. Very mercurial, you need to leave this in the glass and let it evolve naturally. Smooth, silky entry. Well-knit and very focused. It does not quite have the depth on the mid-palate, this is more a feminine, elegant Grands Echezeaux with a long sweet cherry-infused finish. A lovely wine, but perhaps not as long-lasting as the 2002. (470 cases produced) Tasted February 2006.

Tasting note: A stunningly pure and distinctly floral black pinot fruit nose that displays spice, plum and hints of smoke and animale that introduces round yet structured, muscular yet accessible flavors of phenomenal richness and power. This is a big wine that combines power and finesse though it is a good deal less elegant than it usually is but it is forceful, powerful and exceptionally long.

Good red-ruby. Superripe aromas of dark raspberry, currant and truffle. Large-scaled and broad but showing less early sweetness than the Echezeaux; more reserved, fresher and more elegant. Finishes with substantial tannins that will require several years of bottle aging.