As it usually is relative to the Echézeaux, the restrained nose is distinctly more reserved but classier with a wonderfully intense and layered nose that is more floral still while offering up a variety of spice notes, including anise, clove and soy that can also be found on the pure and sleekly muscled flavors that possess real drive, indeed this does a slow but sure build from the mid-palate on through the explosive finish. This is an interesting wine in that the natural robustness of a fine GE is present but the natural elegance of the vintage tames it somewhat and one could quite accurately describe the '06 GE as robustly elegant yet distinctly understated and not be wrong. Despite the elegance, this will need plenty of cellar time.

Good medium red. Reticent, deeply pitched but pure aromas of raspberry and mocha. Broad and ripe but tight and backward today, and not showing quite the lift or the freshness of fruit of the Echezeaux. With its saline earth tones, this is more savory than sweet. Finishes with firm, youthfully tough tannins. This was my least favorite 2006 here in the context of the cru, but I suspect this is in a restrained stage today. Villaine noted that although the average age of vines here is still more than 40, there's a good percentage of 15-to-20-year-old vines.

The Domaine's 2006 Grands-Echezeaux is altogether less charming and flattering than its ostensibly lesser sibling, leading as it does with fresh red meat and pronouncedly saline, marine mineral notes even in the nose. In the mouth, this is relatively spare but formidably-concentrated and finely-tannic, with cedar, tartly-edged though ripe black fruits, and alkaline mineral notes that carry into a striking, bloodily carnal and almost briny finish. Here is Pinot Noir in its role as a mirror for human flesh and bone. What I see sends shivers down my spine and excites my imagination, but the wine seems to have no intention of flattering me. I didn't encounter another Pinot at all like this in the vintage, and it should be fascinating to follow for a dozen or more years, but unlike the Echezeaux, I would not plan to open any bottles for at least another 3-4. The Domaine de La Romanee-Conti harvested from the 20th-25th of September (commencing with Richebourg) and subjected the crop to rigorous sorting. Understandably, the viticultural meticulousness at this estate as well as its team of some 60 highly-skilled and –motivated pickers paid dividends in the context of a challenging vintage. Director Aubert de Villaine and cellarmaster Bernard Noblet vinified their 2006s with a lesser share of stems and whole clusters, and exposed them to new wood for a shorter period (thereafter racking into older barrels) than the corresponding 2005s. Importer: Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661

A little paler than the Échezeaux. Back to that more exotic spice note of the Cuvée Duvault-Blochet. Smells like the feeling of sinking into deep cushions with that lovely sweet fruit hiding under a fine overlay of spice. Very finely textured but still has a firmness of grip at the end. Tight and dry and really holding back at the moment. Like meeting a tall, dark, handsome but safe stranger in a scantily lit room. (JH)