The 2008 Grands-Echezeaux is a stunningly beautiful wine. Exotic notes of star anise, fennel, hard candy and orange peel meld into a deep core of expressive fruit. The 2008 Grands-Echezeaux is powerful from start to finish, with endless layers of flavor that grow in the glass. It is a spherical, multi-dimensional Burgundy in need of at least a few years in the cellar, perhaps quite a few. Anticipated maturity: 2023-2038. tasted the 2008s in bottle in late June 2011 after having gone through the 2010s from barrel. Aubert de Villaine describes 2008 as a difficult vintage with a lot of rain. Botrytis was an issue and the vineyards required constant attention. On September 14 the weather changed dramatically. A steady north wind dried out the grapes and concentrated sugars quickly, which also reduced the size of the berries. A further selection of fruit lowered yields to an even greater extent, resulting in overall production that is as much as 50% lower than normal for the Domaine. As for the wines, they are magnificent in my view, but will require considerable patience. Importer: Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661

Tasted out of barrel at the Domaine. The Grands Echezeaux has a spellbinding nose with such exuberance and thrilling sense of mineralite. Cranberry, strawberry, limestone and just a hint of sous-bois: complex and absorbing. The palate is medium-bodied with a fine thread of acidity, less racy than the Echezeaux but a little more weight. Chalky tannins at the moment, then fanning out to a finish that exudes finesse. Primaland in fieri, but great potential. Tasted November 2009.

Medium red, less saturated than the Echezeaux. Initially reduced aromas of smoke, truffle and underbrush showed some strawberry lift with aeration. Suave on entry, then dry and reticent in the middle, displaying more soil tones today than high-pitched primary fruits. Deeper than the Echezeaux but not yet as delineated. Finishes with broad, dusty tannins and excellent length.