More brooding and reserved than the Échézeaux that preceded it in the tasting, the 2017 Grands Échézeaux Grand Cru unwinds in the glass with an enticing bouquet of cassis, blackberries, blood orange, exotic spices and musk. On the palate, it's full-bodied, ample and fleshy, with a more introverted, structured profile than the Échézeaux, its considerable reserves of concentrated fruit framed by an abundance of powdery tannin and succulent acids. Long and penetrating, this will reward sustained bottle age. The Grands Échézeaux was picked on September 12.

The 2017 Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru, picked on September 12, has a beguiling, pure bouquet of scents of red cherries, wild strawberry and crushed stone, all a little more cohesive than the Echézeaux, with sous-bois scents developing. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannin, the fruit a little darker than the Echézeaux, with notes of sage and a light tobacco note toward the fresh, quite saline finish. Excellent.

Pale garnet. More closed on the nose than the Échezeaux. Again a certain ferny quality. Quite high toned. Massive energy and zest with quite marked acidity and fine tannin at this stage. Real health juice! Grainy texture and lots to chew on. 1,290 cases (JR)