Explosive, complex and dramatically fragrant aromas of peach, pear, touch of earth and a trace of wood spice introduce massively-scaled, extremely ripe flavors that simply assault the palate. Exceptionally powerful and very masculine, this is an opulent, take-no-prisoners style of wine that manages to avoid excess and delivers the weight and power with grace and the beautifully balanced finish lasts for minutes. While this could certainly be drunk now with pleasure, this seems to have another year or two of upside and I would be inclined to hold it a bit longer. As with the '97 Leflaive, this is indisputably a stunning success for the vintage. Consistent notes.

In this flight the 1997 Montrachet is a bit four square, in relative terms, of course. The overall sensation is of a phenolic, very Pinot-like intensity. There is plenty of depth in the glass, but the 1997 is not especially showy today. Perhaps a few more years in bottle will help the wine come together a little more fully. The overall impression is of a push and pull, with all the ups and downs of the vintage totally captured in the glass. In 1997, the growing season got off to an early start. Conditions were uneven throughout the year, especially during what turned out to be a long and drawn out flowering that lasted three weeks (compared to 2002, where flowering lasted three days!), which resulted in varying levels of ripeness throughout the bunches. August was quite warm, which caused the vines to shut down until late August, when rain brought the plants back into balance. The Chardonnay would not be picked until September 29, after all the Pinots and very late for Chardonnay.

Pale gold color. Extravagant aromas of superripe exotic fruits, pineapple, honey, white chocolate and roasted nuts. Thick and full yet almost miraculously fresh and shapely. Powerful flavors of apricot and honey offer great fat and thrust. Has the sheer extract, and just enough acidity, to hide its alcohol. Very long on the palate. One of the most impressive white wines of this vintage.

"Too many people picked chardonnay a bit early, a bit green," noted DRC co-owner / director Aubert de Villaine.

Having retasted DRC's 1997 Montrachet in March, 2000, it was apparent that my earlier assessment was both conservative in judgement and anticipated maturity dates. It reveals a straw/goldish color and loads of tropical fruit, mineral, anise, and buttered aromas. This massive, medium-to-full-bodied, and dense wine displays layers of spice, creamy super-ripe pears, creme brulee, and hints of butterscotch in its opulent flavor profile. Velvety-textured and broad, it is forward yet better balanced than originally perceived. Drink it between 2002 and 2012. Importer: Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA; tel (707) 963-9661.

When Aubert de Villaine (the estate's co-director) sent out his teams to harvest the Domaine's Montrachet in 1997, the entire vineyard had already been harvested, save for Domaine Jacques Prieur's parcel. The wine is slightly gold in color and offers super-ripe fruit aromas intermingled with vanilla-infused spices. It is thick, dense, and crammed with creme brulee, butterscotch, and caramelized minerals. Medium-to-full bodied, velvety-textured, forward, powerful, intensely flavorful, and extremely expressive, it should be drunk over the next 7 years. Importer: Wilson Daniels, St. Helena, CA; (707) 963-9661.