The Richebourg was an explosive wine with an earthy, cinnamon, gingery, soy sauce aroma backed up with the intense smell of plums and toasty new oak. Extremely rich, full bodied, and awesomely proportioned, this heroic wine should be drunk from the late nineties through the first two decades of the twenty-first century. It seems bigger, fuller, and more powerful than even the celestial 1985. The prices for the wines of the Domaine de la Romanee-Conti may be exorbitant but the quality of the wines produced in the eighties is truly remarkable. The 1988s are celestial wines selling at stratospheric prices. The 1988 production was twice what it was in 1987, but the same as in 1985. The 1988s are fuller-bodied, deeper, more concentrated wines than the superb 1987s, and will need some time in the cellar to shed their generous amounts of tannin. The only vintage they can be favorably compared with is the 1985 vintage, and the 1985s were a great deal more forward and flattering to taste when young. There is more depth in the 1988s than in the 1986s or even the superb 1980s (which turned out to be the finest wines made in that underrated vintage).

This has a wonderful nose of ripe redcurrants, strawberry and minerals with a touch of oyster shell that comes through on the palate. Very well defined on the crisp entry, slightly leafy with lovely balance. Very natural and understated with vibrant acidity, crisp and very focused on the finish. Surprisingly primal, more so than the 1989, so I would anticipate this improving further over the next few years. A Richebourg with a certain coolness and stoicism about it. Drinking 2012-2025. Tasted November 2006.