Vibrant, pure, spicy and concentrated to the point of almost painful intensity with its super ripe, palate staining flavors yet this remains regal, almost aloof and quite reserved. The focus in unbelievable and while it's hard to speak of subtle power, one can sense the vibrancy and depths of reserve that are only hinted at now. This is every bit as good as the La Tache but a completely different expression. It is also the longest of any of these wines and the finish lasts literally for minutes; I could still taste it the next day. Between this and the La Tache, I could only shake my head in awe. Drink 2015-2030+

Ruby-red. Deep, sappy, brooding nose dominated by liqueur-like ripeness and oriental spices. Huge yet magically light on its feet; completely unevolved and less showy and sweet today than La Tache, but has all the elements for future greatness. The suggestion of green austerity will be transformed into rose petal in 12 to 15 years, says de Villaine. The thoroughly ripe, suave tannins coat the entire palate.

The medium to dark ruby-colored 1999 Romanee-Conti is mind-boggling. It has a hugely expressive nose of super-ripe black cherries, candied plums, and violets. Full-bodied and possessing a magnificent breadth of sweet, penetrating fruits, this is an unbelievably complex wine. It coats the palate with its velvety sweet cherries, jammy blackberries, and fruit-soaked tannin. Perfectly balanced and seamless, this gem has a remarkably long finish. This is a wine of exemplary precision, delineation, and power with undescribable class and refinement. Projected maturity: 2006-2020. Importer: Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661.

The 1999 Romanée-Conti Grand Cru was a mind-blowing wine that was off the charts. To be frank, although I had only tasted this once after bottling, I predicted that the 1999 La Tâche would just pip the Romanée-Conti since the precocious growing season would suit the former. How wrong was I? The Romanée-Conti is blessed with an ineffably complex, profound bouquet that left the entire room breathless. Shimmering red fruit, wet slate, perhaps even a subtle shucked oyster shell scent, something marine underneath. The palate is perfectly balanced. The palate is in fact, perfect. I have rarely encountered any red wine with as much precision as this Romanée-Conti, the ultimate in terms of harmony and focus. It rather looks at the 1999 La Tâche and does everything the same but with half the effort. The glass was empty too quickly but the experience is permanently etched onto my memory. Tasted at the 1999 DRC dinner.