The 2005 Romanée-St. Vivant is both incredibly aromatic and vibrant, but, then again, it is Romanée-St. Vivant. Here, the impression is of pure verticality and towering structure. A bit darker and more brooding than RSV often is, the 2005 is a wine built for cellaring. Perhaps because it is the first wine I tasted from the domaine, I have always had a weak spot for the RSV. The 2005 is magnificent, but it is also a wine for those who can be patient.

This is also very primary and backward as hints of supremely elegant and seductive exceptionally ripe black fruit aromas replete with soy, hoisin, clove and anise nuances merge into wonderfully fine and refined linear and firmly structured flavors that culminate in a precise, pure and driving finish that goes on and on. This is a really impressive effort that offers terrific potential but fans of this wine should note that it is arguably more masculine than it usually is yet at the same time utterly seamless. A 'wow' wine that is perhaps the ripest of the DRC '05s. A true knockout that is sheer class.

Just as this year’s Echezeaux challenges the quality of the Grands-Echezeaux, another surprise of the vintage is a spectacular showing for the 2005 Romanee-St.-Vivant. A startlingly dark, mouth-watering amalgam of purple plum paste, blackberry preserves, bitter chocolate, toasted walnut, soy, and raw beef intrigues the nose. On the palate, this cleaves to the dark side, with viscous, mouth-coating concentration of lightly-cooked black fruits, charred meat, mysterious forest floor complexity, and bitter-sweet florality, but simultaneously delivers a vibratory finish like that of the energetic Grands-Echezeaux. With its palpable extract, profound personality, and refined but abundant tannins, this is surely wine to set aside for at least a decade. Once the grapes in these fabled vineyards had reached a potential alcohol of 13%, reports Aubert de Villaine, he was ready to pick, because conditions had seldom been so conducive to perfect ripeness (including that of the stems). It was all done in a week, commencing with La Tache and Romanee Conti, and finishing on September 23 with Romanee-St.-Vivant (and Montrachet, on which I shall report at a future date). De Villaine intended to bottle in March or April by gravity in six-barrel lots, as has become general practice here over the past decade. Importer: Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661.

A deep crimson colour with ruby rim. The nose if tight at first with raspberry, cranberry, a touch of dried blood and sous-bois. Very complex, but introverted and taking its time, reluctantly revealing chalk and a touch of talcum. The palate is medium-bodied but do not be fooled, this is an immensely powerful Romanee-Saint-Vivant. Quite firm tannins, perhaps more masculine and a little more austere than usual. Again wonderful focus with both red and dark cherries, raspberry leaf, a touch of fresh tobacco and smoke towards the long, satin-textured finish. Tasted February 2008.

Deep red-ruby. Multidimensional nose combines blackberry, violet and minerals with exotic spices, earth and underbrush. Then juicy and gripping in the mouth, combining outstanding density and a distinctly light touch. This, too, boasts superb energy and sappiness to its flavors of red fruits, spices and earth. Wonderfully complex already but youthfully tight, firmly structured and built for a long and slow evolution in bottle. The tannins are solid but not hard. A great vintage for this cuvee and likely to evolve for two or three decades, at a minimum.

Looks remarkably similar to the 2003 in terms of density of hue: mid crimson with a bit of development at the rim. Pretty intense colour. Even a blackish tinge. Lovely blossomy bouquet. Just a hint of prunes. Very fresh on the palate with real intensity. Still quite marked tannins. Quite burly even. Clearly an enormous amount is being held in reserve but there is lots there. Neat and clean on the finish. Very good quality of tannins, like a silk scrubbing brush. Persistent. Very silky indeed – and so sweet! Exciting. Complex. (JR)