A much firmer wine, the 2006 Romanée-St. Vivant is backed up by firm veins of mouthwatering salinity and acidity. The characteristic Romanée-St. Vivant perfumed bouquet is very much in evidence, while there is a sense of energy and pure drive that distinguishes it from the Échézeaux. The RSV can be drunk today, but knowing how these wines age, patience will be rewarded as 2006 still isn’t showing all of its cards.

The Domaine de La Romanee-Conti's 2006 Romanee-St.-Vivant charts its own mysterious path, dissimilar to that of their Grands-Echezeaux, as well as reflecting the strides in quality that have manifestly been achieved in recent years in this site, more than at any other at this domaine. Iris, buddleia, and musky narcissus-like floral perfume; ripe purple plum and blackberry; sassafras and licorice; along with smoked meat and a hoisin-like amalgam of spices and soy all waft alluringly from the glass. The tannins here are ultra-refined and there is a vintage-typical sense of levity, despite all of the dark intrigue of enveloping black fruits, forest floor, fungal, and carnal flavors that persist on the palate. Here is an uncanny alliance of the sensual and thought-provoking such as only great red Burgundy among the world's red wines can engender, and if this wine doesn't stimulate in you cravings and wonder at once, the fault is doubtless in yourself and not the glass. It seems to marry the brightness and finesse of the 2002 with the texturally richness of the (unexpectedly fine) 2000, two standouts in recent tasting of Romanee-St.-Vivant that I was privileged to attend. But there is much more depth here, and I expect that this wine's beauty will be worth pondering and savoring for at least two decades. The Domaine de La Romanee-Conti harvested from the 20th-25th of September (commencing with Richebourg) and subjected the crop to rigorous sorting. Understandably, the viticultural meticulousness at this estate as well as its team of some 60 highly-skilled and –motivated pickers paid dividends in the context of a challenging vintage. Director Aubert de Villaine and cellarmaster Bernard Noblet vinified their 2006s with a lesser share of stems and whole clusters, and exposed them to new wood for a shorter period (thereafter racking into older barrels) than the corresponding 2005s. Importer: Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661

This wine is quite expressive and unmistakable in its pedigree. At this youthful stage it gives intense black cherry and baking spice aromas with nuances of moss covered bark and iron ore. Rich, concentrated and very tight-knit, the medium bodied palate lend crisp acid and firm grainy tannins. The finish is very long.

Deep red-ruby. Pure, perfumed aromas of redcurrant, plum and Oriental spices. Richer and sweeter than the Grands-Echezeaux, with the exotic spice character following through in the mouth. Finishes firm, long and aromatic, with lingering oak spice and captivating minerality. Our RSV always takes a couple days longer to ferment than our other wines, noted Noblet.

This is more elegant still but equally restrained as the almost discreet nose runs toward the plum and blue berry side of the fruit spectrum. The floral-infused, structured and very serious flavors culminate in a youthfully austere finish offering huge depth and length with both precision and linearity though there is a trace of dryness to the underlying tannins, which presently compromises the balance just enough where this is not quite at the same level as the very best in the range.

Delicately and sweetly spiced and still beautifully pure red fruit, just a touch of something peppery, even the finest note of liquorice. Transparent. Polite but firm grip and superbly balanced freshness. Puzzlingly both restrained and expressive. After the grip, a velvety depth and length and warmth. (JH)